Pores:
We all have these tiny openings in our skin for releasing sweat and oil, but
for some individuals, they can be more troublesome than for others. In other
words, clogged pores occur more frequently in some of us than in others.
Clogged pores result when oil fails to flow through them properly, explains
board-certified dermatologist Dr. Geeta Yadav. "Usually, this happens due
to an excess of oil that gets trapped by dead cells that haven't shed properly
from the lining of the pore. Additionally, makeup, dirt, and/or comedogenic
ingredients can block the pore, hindering the flow of oil," she says.
Comedogenic
is essentially a term for pore-clogging ingredients, and while these substances
aren't the only cause of acne and breakouts—there are several contributing
factors—they certainly don't improve the situation. "Pore-clogging
ingredients significantly increase the likelihood of developing pimples,"
explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rachel Nazarian. "For
individuals with naturally oily skin or those who carry acne-causing bacteria,
using these ingredients is akin to fueling a fire. It's a risky combination
that can worsen acne and lead to persistent breakouts."
So,
what exactly causes an ingredient to be likely to clog your pores? In short, we
don't have a definitive answer. "The comedogenicity of ingredients isn't
fully understood," explains Dr. Yadav. "In some instances,
ingredients may interact poorly with your sebum, causing it to become thicker,
while other ingredients may be too dense for sebum to pass through." Dr.
Melanie Palm, a board-certified dermatologist, adds that pore-clogging
ingredients are typically occlusive. They form a barrier on the skin's surface,
sealing in oil, especially in individuals with oily skin. Dr. Palm also notes
that some pore-clogging ingredients introduce additional oils to the skin,
causing cells to adhere more tightly together, rather than sloughing off as
they should from the pore lining.
Now
that you understand why comedogenic ingredients can increase your breakouts,
it's time to learn which ones specifically to consider avoiding. Ahead, read all about seven pore-clogging
ingredients dermatologists say are worth steering clear of if you're prone to
acne.
Coconut
Oil
All
three dermatologists we spoke with called out coconut oil as
a common offender. "While it has a variety of health benefits, it's highly
comedogenic, especially when applied on the the face," Palm explains.
"Because it isn't easily absorbed [into] the skin, it can trap bacteria
and dead skin cells, making it detrimental for those who are acne-prone."
Petroleum
Jelly
Commonly
known as Vaseline and used in the viral TikTok slugging trend, petroleum jelly is
one ingredient you'll definitely want to skip if you're always battling
breakouts. It's very thick, sitting on the surface of the skin and can cause a
"traffic jam" in the pore, leading to oil and dead cell buildup that
can ultimately turn into a pimple, Yadav cautions.
Cocoa
Butter
As
a general rule of thumb, ingredients with high concentrations of oleic acid, a
fatty acid, tend to be more comedogenic, Yadav tells us. This is why cocoa
butter can cause issues, as it's very high in oleic acid, she explains. Top
tip: If you're looking for an alternative that's just as moisturizing but won't clog
pores, Palm recommends shea
butter, which is non-comedogenic.
Silicone
More
often found in makeup than skincare—specifically in primers—as well as
haircare like conditioners and masks, silicone is highly comedogenic, according
to Palm. In checking for it on the ingredient label, make sure you're also
looking for and steering clear of its derivatives, including cyclomethicone and
dimethicone.
Lanolin
"This
is yet another occlusive ingredient that creates a film over the dermal layer,
trapping dead skin cells, bacteria, and oil within the pores, which can worsen
acne and breakouts," Palm explains. Nazarian also cites it as one of the
more common pore-clogging ingredients out there.
Flaxseed
Oil
A
high concentration of oleic acid is also to blame for this oil's
comedogenicity. Yadav says grapeseed oil is a
good alternative, equally nourishing for the skin but without the potential
pore-clogging pitfall.
Marula
Oil
"This
ranks about a three or four on the comedogenicity scale, meaning it's not
suitable for those with acne-prone skin," Palm explains. Swap it for squalane instead.
"Typically derived from olives, it's intensely nourishing to the skin and
is biomimetic, meaning it behaves similarly to your skin's natural oils and
won't congest the pore," Yadav says, adding that it's also a good
substitute for coconut oil.
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